Riding Bicycle in Winter and Mountain and Bicycle Lighting

A mountain bicycle (MTB) or mountain bike is a bike designed for off-road riding. Mountain bikes have some similarities to other bikes, but have features designed to increase strength and performance in rough terrain. Typically they include suspension forks, larger studded tyres, stronger wheels, stronger brakes, straight handlebars, low gears for steep climbing and sometimes rear suspension to truly smooth the trajectory.

Mountain bicycle are generally specialized for use on mountain trails, single trails, fire roads, and other unpaved surfaces, although most can [original research?] never be used off-road, and hybrid road bikes are often offered for sale based on "mountain bikes" frames. Mountain biking terrain usually has stones, roots, loose dirt, and steep slopes. Many routes have additional TTF (Technical Trail Features) such as log dumps, block walks, rock gardens, skinnies, gap jumps and wall walks. Mountain bikes are built for this type of terrain and features. The rugged construction combined with stronger rims and wider tires have made this style of bike popular with urban riders and couriers who need to move around potholes.

They want to ride like the wind. They want to be fast. They want to roll over rocks, shoot up hills and go down almost vertical descents. They want fame, money and prestige that come in order to be a professional cyclist. Or maybe you just want to ride on local routes without crashing.

Well, no matter what your end goals are, you should start with the basics. Whether you're riding a mountain bike to stay in shape, or just enjoying nature, with good cycling skills and confidence, this will be a much better experience. With these tips we will make it easy for you, the rest is up to you.

1. Take care of your bicycle

It's hard to focus on the road if you hear weird noises from your bike. Basic maintenance on your bike takes only a few minutes and can save you time for a long walk or, worse still, a trip to the emergency room. Even if you cannot repair your bike, you can still take it to the garage before you hit the ground.

Walk around your bike and look for anything that is worn, cracked, broken, or just not working properly. Remember that small problems at home can turn into big problems on the track. Also, make sure your bike is set up to suit your needs. A bike that is too big or too small will be difficult to control.

2. Ride with better riders than you.

Not only will this help you push yourself a little more, but it will also help you learn some of the riding habits of people who have done this for some time. Watch how they position their body while riding up and down. Watch how they cope with rough, rocky passages. Watch how they repair a flat tire when they're a few miles away.

These valuable skills are easy to learn while riding with other riders. Check with your local bike dealers to find group rides in your area.

3. Focus on where you want to go.

When you are on your way, look where you want to go, especially on a path with lots of roots and stones. If you look at a stone or tree that you want to avoid, you will probably meet it. Instead, focus on the line you want to pass.

It's called a sighting. There's a complicated explanation for why it works, but don't worry about it - it just works. Always look ahead and find the line you want to take, and you will ride smoother.

4. Relax.

Regardless of whether you ride a hard bike or full suspension, the best suspension you have is your hands and feet. Get up, relax and let them soak up the bumps and ruts on the way. Once you learn how to let your bike ride under you, you will be able to swim on most obstacles.

This will also help you loosen your grip on the handlebars a bit. Make sure you hold on tight, but not too tight. Deadly clutching to white ankles will make your forearms and arms tire faster, making it harder to keep control.

5. Twist

Cadence, i.e. rotation of cranks, is a very important aspect of cycling. Professional cyclists spend a lot of time developing a good rotation. When you press the pedals in squares or with jerky blows down, you upset your balance and work harder. Not only is spinning more effective, but it also helps maintain grip on loose ground.

A good cadence includes pedaling in a circle and riding in the right gear. If you move too high, it will be difficult to brake, and if you move too low, you will twist and turn the wheel. However, if you change gears so as to maintain the same pedal speed at around 70-100 rpm, you will find that it is much easier to climb over uneven terrain and pedals.

6. Teach the wheels

Wheels and nose wheels (where the rear wheel rises from the ground) are funny little tricks, and they are quite useful on the track.

You can pull a small wheel to lift the front wheel above the object, and then switch to the bow wheel so that the rear wheel doesn't hit an obstacle. Even if you cannot lift any of the wheels off the ground, some parts of the track will be smoother if you know how to unload them. This is easier to do with clipless pedals, but less frightening to learn with platform pedals.

Starting with the pedal up and ending with the pedal down, the simple steering column is a combination of pulling up on the steering wheel, shifting weight to the rear wheel and pressing the pedal up. You can simply do it in half a turn or try to hold the wheel and keep pedaling. Either way, keep your hand ready to pull the rear brake if you go too far back; if you hold it down, the front wheel will be pushed down.

The nose wheel is a bit different. You definitely don't want to do this if there's something on the track that makes the front wheels stop, and you don't want to reach for the front brake. Any one of them will knock you down. Lean forward a bit with one move, push yourself forward on the bars and pull yourself upside down. Even if you use the platform pedals, you can catch your feet and still lift the back of the bike.

7. Stop

The skills of jumping and balancing really pay off when you drive on technical tracks. The ability to stop and reboot without having to set your leg makes it easier to maintain momentum.

Both of these things happen when you stand still, but you can use your bike to make a lunge, jumping to ride over things (stairs, rocks, people, etc.). Pure stationary balancing - also called track parking - is done without holding the brakes. To learn this, you should practice driving as slowly as possible and apply the brakes to slow down. The easiest way to learn how to do this is on a gentle gradient. Soon you will be able to keep your balance without going anywhere, by moving your weight and moving your bike underneath.

Jumping is about the same concept, but you do it with both brakes, lifting both wheels to keep your bike close at hand. When your body is in the middle between the two wheels, squeeze your body, then press down to lift your body, and then pull up with your arms and legs. This takes practice, but it will soon be easy and useful.

Small tricks may seem silly, but they help develop general cycling skills.

8. Slow down

Actually, it takes two brakes. Better braking allows for better bike control. Many new motorbike riders believe they only have two brakes that are locked and not used. In fact, you have less control when the brakes are locked like the car.

Learn how to effectively use both brakes. Most of the braking power comes from the front brake. But be careful not to use them too much when you go down or cornered. Otherwise, you will either be thrown behind the wheel or the front wheel will slip out. It's all about moderation and modulation.

When cornering, practice braking before bending, not in the middle. Soon you will be able to pass corners faster. Learn to spring the brakes downhill to prevent them from being locked. If the brakes are locked, release some. Not only will you get more control, but you will also protect the track from excessive erosion.

9. At the back

Once you've mastered the local ways, go out into the world and explore new ones. New paths and challenges make the ride more fun and help you sharpen your skills. This is the key to becoming a versatile rider.

10. Ride everywhere.

The more time you spend on your bike, the better you will feel. Go to the mailbox, the shop, the coffee shop. This will help improve your riding skills as you ride up and down kerbs, dodge potholes and avoid angry Chihuahuas. Once you can easily climb two or three stairs, you can approach the obstacles with more confidence.

You can read as much about cycling as you like, but nothing can replace the time in the saddle. With that in mind, put it down, shift to gear, get out and ride. I'll see you on the way.

Cycling in winter

Whether you ride your bike to work every day or bike ride on weekends, you can ride the bike all year round with pedals.

If you let the cold keep you indoors, you are missing something. These are just some of the advantages of riding a bike in winter:

You keep fit all year round (your body struggles with low temperatures while cycling, so you can reach your weight and fitness goals even faster).

You save money on gym membership and gasoline.

You will strengthen your immune system and improve your metabolism (i.e. you will feel less cold and sick all winter).

You will improve your mood during the long, dark winter months (exercise produces serotonin, known as the happiness hormone).

Every day you will have a little adventure - and perhaps you will feel the beautiful scenery.

When the temperature drops, it can be difficult to motivate yourself to get in the saddle. Here are eight tips on how to conquer winter roads with minimal inconvenience.

This time of year again. It gets cold in many places around the country, but that should not stop you from cycling. Follow these eight tips on cycling in winter for a pleasant ride at this time of year.

1. Get dressed properly.

Keep your head, arms, legs and upper body warm to stay warm during winter riding. Most of the body heat goes through the head, so using a balaclava under the helmet will help keep you warm. Wear either long toe gloves or mittens to protect your hands and warm socks to keep your feet warm. If it's really cold, put on two pairs of socks and use thermal shoe covers to keep the wind off your feet. Put layers on to keep your upper body warm, including a lightweight, breathable outer jacket that is waterproof and windproof. It also helps to use tissues that moisturise the skin. It helps you stay drier and warmer. As a rule, you should use leg warmers to protect your knees when the temperature drops below 60° F.

2. Start warming up.

Never start your journey with a cold start. This is a recipe for a pitiful journey, because your limbs will cool down very quickly. Start the journey with a warm feeling, maybe even too warm. Have a hot drink in a warm room before you go outside. This will help you warm up more comfortably on your bicycle.

3. To be visible.

In many places, bicyclists do not expect to see bicyclists on the roads during the winter months. Wear light clothing and use reflectors and lights, even if you will not ride after dark. At dusk, it can be difficult to see cyclists, and a good set of bicycle lights (e.g. headlights, turn signals) will greatly improve your visibility.

4. Plan your route in advance.

There may always be debris, a bike path and hard shoulders on the road, but this is more common during the winter months. Plan your route in advance and make sure it is relatively free of debris and safe to ride a bike. Shorten your route even further in winter. Otherwise you may run out of energy, or you may just get cold and be away from home. Look for a circuit near your home that will allow you to shorten your trip if necessary.

5. Pay attention to the wind.

Whenever possible, try to complete the first half of your journey with a headwind and return with a tailwind. This will allow you to cope with the headwind when it is fresh and to benefit from the tailwind on your way home. This is even more important in winter as it allows you to avoid icy winds during the second half of your journey when you are sweating and tired.

6. Go with your friends.

Misery likes company. Okay, riding in the winter doesn't have to be pathetic, but she has huge advantages in riding in a group. It can be a more enjoyable experience, you can take turns protecting each other from wind bites, and the exchange of conversations speeds up time. It is also safer and more convenient if someone has mechanical problems.

7. Take care of your bike.

Riding your bike in winter can be devastating to your bicycle, so take care of it. Clean your bicycle, chains, gears, brakes, and rims regularly. This means that after every ride on the wet road. It also means that the chain and gears should be lubricated more often. At the beginning and end of winter, you can contact your local bicycle dealer to make sure the bike is in good condition.

8. Take a ride with an internal coach.

It may be too cold and pathetic to ride outside. This is especially true if you are a rival cyclist. Riding in very cold, windy, icy or wet conditions is not a very effective training. Riding on the simulator indoors provides safer riding conditions and allows you to achieve the same training effect in less time. It is comfortable for most cyclists and very effective for high-intensity training. You can still ride outdoors, but with an indoor trainer you can be more selective when you expose yourself to elements. It also gives you the opportunity to change your pace. Use the rides outdoors for low and medium intensity effort, and the coach for more intense exercise.

Bicycle lights for night rides.

Bicycle lights are lighter and smaller, while providing brighter lighting for safer riding.

Types of Bicycle Lights

The well-lit bike has front, side and rear lights to provide visibility for drivers and pedestrians.

When riding to and from work after dark - especially on pedestrian paths that are far away from surrounding light sources - the front lights should be a powerful lighting system so you can see well in front of you.

High-performance lighting systems: Typically these are rechargeable battery-powered lighting systems that provide maximum illumination. They are more expensive, but much brighter than emergency lights, and help you see where you are going on the road or on the road in almost any environment.

Front, side and rear safety lights: They help drivers see you in poor light conditions. The brightest light also improves visibility during the day. However, on most nighttime drives, they are not bright enough to help you see your destination. The main differences between the safety light models are installation options, the number of LEDs and the use of rechargeable or disposable batteries.

Comparison of luminous efficacy

All luminaires offered by REI use robust housings sealed with weather-resistant gaskets. You can rely on these lights to light up in any weather. What you should know:

LEDs: Energy efficiency and durability make LEDs the dominant light source for bicycle lights. They are available in a wide range of brightness levels.

Lumen: Lumen is a unit of measurement that determines the amount of light that falls on the object being illuminated. Measured at an even distance, the lumen describes the light intensity of each illuminator. Most luminaire manufacturers provide the lumen rate; it is displayed on the REI.com product pages.

Beam pattern: If you are driving on roads with street lights, you should select a front light with a narrowly focused beam. On dark roads or paths, you should select a wide focused beam for better peripheral vision. Buyers may find it difficult to compare the light distribution; check product descriptions online or contact a REI sales specialist for assistance.

Rechargeable lighting systems

Rechargeable systems have lithium-ion batteries. They can be recharged hundreds of times, making them an economical and environmentally friendly alternative to disposable batteries.

Unlike alkaline batteries, which slowly weaken throughout their lifetime, most rechargeable batteries provide uniform light until their capacity is exhausted. Most rechargeable flashlights therefore have a "fuel sensor" or low battery warning. All rechargeable batteries have a power indicator that shows that power is available.

Lithium ion batteries have excellent performance at low weight and long life. They are easy to keep in charge as they have no "memory" effect due to complete discharge.

Battery system maintenance

Most batteries are designed for more than 500 charging/discharging cycles. Stand-alone devices can be charged from the power cord or from a USB charger.

When charging the batteries, make sure that they are fully charged, especially before storing them, but do not recharge them. Most systems have smart chargers that automatically stop when the batteries are fully charged to prevent them from being recharged. As inactive batteries lose their charge over time, plug and recharge the system before each use.

Battery life and operating time

Battery life depends on the luminaire battery type, system capacity and type of LEDs in the luminaire. Product pages at REI.com offer comparative overviews.

A flashing light emits a noticeable pulse (continuous or random), which consumes less battery power than a continuous beam. Most luminaires have a flashing and continuous light mode. In the dark with flashing lights it is difficult to see well, so keep the flash mode for use during the day.

Most rechargeable devices have multiple settings. You can switch between long, low-power light and bright, high-intensity light, which discharges the battery more quickly. On most systems, you can choose between several light levels.

Mounting Options

The headlamps can be mounted on the steering wheel, but many of them can also be mounted on a helmet. For night driving on the tracks, consider using both types. Headlamps mounted on the helmet can be directed by one turn of the head. So if you only use 1 headlight, you will find that the headlight mounted on the helmet is the most versatile.

Rear parking lights can be attached to a backpack, bag or seat post. Some of these can be mounted at the rear of the bike rack.

Side safety lights are usually installed on spokes or frames. Spokes mounted lights are especially noticeable because they clearly show your wheels in motion.

Batteries for high-performance lights can be attached to your bike or - because many of them have been significantly reduced in size and weight - can be stored in their packaging. Quick-release equipment allows you to take the flashlight with you when you leave your bike, especially when the battery and flashlight are in the same device.